Pugwash

The early history of Pugwash

EDITOR’S NOTE: The following story contains some Interesting information on Pugwash from an old time record. The story first appeared in the Amherst Daily News on Dec. 1, 1931.

     Pugwash, situated on the Northumberland Strait where the Pugwash River flows into it, has a beautiful harbor and affords anchorage for large ships. 

Haliburton says, in his history of Nova Scotia, that it is the finest harbour in the country. The name “Pugwash” has been taken from the Indian name, meaning “Deep Water”. 

The district east of Pugwash was the first to become settled. The first settlers came from New York, and made their home in that district about 1775. 

It is claimed that Major Andrew Forshner was the first white man to light a fire with flint and steel. Later he kept a small inn, which was a regular stopping place for stages which ran between Amherst and Pictou. His son built one of the first mills, consisting of a saw mill, grist mill and carding mill, on a small brook. Two extra dams were built to ensure a good, steady supply of water. 

A large number of the old Major’s descendants are still living in that section and his sword which may have shed blood in defence of the Union Jack, is now in the possession of one of his descendants, Kester Forshner. 

Abraham Brown was another of the first settlers of the East Pugwash. Isaac Brown was Abraham’s youngest brother. He built a gristmill and sawmill on what is now called “The Peter Brown Brook.” 

The first Tuttles to settle in this district were John and Steven, who came from New York. They landed at Fort Lawrence and travelled through the woods to Wallace Bay. John adopted a girl who afterwards became the wife of Angus MacLeod of the Gulf and the mother of Malcolm MacLeod, known as “Mackie Angus”. Mrs. MacLeod is said to have carried the first timothy seed ever sown on the Gulf Shore from Wallace Bay, through the woods to her home in her apron. 

The exact date of the first settlement is what is now the town of Pugwash, about 1800. 

The Indians who settled there were mostly Micmacs and were peaceable fellows, except when they were in possession of too much “Fire Water”.

Pugwash was first owned by James Black, Joseph Black and Oliver King. The Blacks obtained their land from the Roche and Morse grant, dated about 1839. 

Among the first to arrive were the Seamans, Collins, Reids, Bigneys, Cooks, Stephens and Bergmans; names which are still well known in that district. These families settled about a quarter of a mile farther down the shore than where the town now stands, at what is now known as Seaman’s Point. 

A settlement was made on the west side of the harbor at an early date, and on the side of the harbor stood the first frame house, built by Abraham Seaman. The house lastly occupied by Edward Rose stands near where this first frame house was built and is over one hundred years old, being built by one of the early Seaman settlers. 

The west side has the honor of claiming the first white child born in Pugwash, Bartlett Brundage. One day when the boy was in the woods looking for cows, he was kidnapped by the Indians. His parents could not find him, but a few years later a sister of his, who was living at McFarlane’s Point, near Wallace, saw a white man with some Indians and recognized him as her brother. He returned with her to his people, but did not remain long, and went back to the Indians.

The second white child was born in a log cabin that stood on what is now called Hollis’ Hill. A story is told about an Indian entering the house while the men were out working and demanding rum. The nurse was alone in the house but refused to give him the liquor. The Indian then seated himself astride the cradle and drawing his knife said: “No rum, kill papose.”. The nurse ran from the house shrieking and the men who were working in the woods nearby, hearing her cries came in time to save the child and punish the brave. This they did by tying him to a tree and whipping him. He did not again bother the settlement.

The first McKims to come to East Pugwash were Andrew and his wife who came from Ireland to Jamestown, Virginia, and later to Londonderry, Nova Scotia. A few years later, Mr. McKim moved to East Pugwash. Afterwards he became an active politician under the leadership of Joseph Howe and was elected member of the legislation for Cumberland County. He died suddenly in the midst of an election campaign. 

In 1827, George D. Wells, of Point De Bute, purchased from the heirs of General Edmund Fanning of Charlottetown, the farm later owned by Howard Wells. This farm was a part of the Fanning grant which was known at that time as “The Manor of Fair Forest”. The Southern boundary of the grant was Wallace Bay, then called Fanningsborough River. 

The descendants of Mr. and Mrs. Donald McFarlane still possess a small table which was presented to Mrs. McFarlane’s grandmother, Mrs. John McFarlane, at Perthshire, Scotland, on April 23rd, 1805. That was the day on which she and her husband left Scotland to come to Canada, where they settled in Fox Harbor. 

Among the early settlers at the Gulf were Malcolm McLeod and his brother. They lived together in a small shack which unfortunately caught fire one night and burned to the ground, together with nearly all of its contents. Among the articles destroyed was one moccasin, and when the brothers reached a Mr. McFarlane’s, their nearest neighbors, one appeared with one moccasin, and one barefoot. 

Robert Harrison, of Fox Harbor, had a saw and grist mill on what is now called Harrison’s Brook. One of Mr. Harrison’s daughters became quite an expert miller and did all the grindings for over a year. 

The earliest settlers lacked the use of farming implements. They prepared the earth around stumps of trees and sowed their grain and seed in these patches. 

The first mills which they used consisted of two large stones with fluted edges with a handle on top of one. The grain was put between the stones and ground by moving one stone over the other, in a backward and forward motion. When a mill could not be procured, they boiled the wheat instead of grinding it.

Before any stores were started in the vicinity, it was necessary for the people to go to Pictou for their supplies. They were guided through the woods by blazed trails. The first vehicle which the people used was called a “fly”. It resembled a shay, having only two wheels and straps fastened to cross bars, supporting the body and taking the place of springs. 

Henry Pineo was the first man who kept store in Pugwash. 

The first real hotel in Pugwash was built by Isaac Todd. He also built one of the first vessels constructed there. 

The Central House which was burned about twenty years ago, was built and run by Joseph Black. In the “Clock Maker”, Sam Slick speaks of “Marm Pugwash”. It is supposed that he referred to Mrs. Joseph Black.

The first church was finished in 1830, and was owned by the Church of England. The steeple was not raised until 1839; at that time it was raised by a number of sailors from vessels in the harbor. 

Ship building was carried on in Pugwash at an early date. Among the most prominent shipbuilders were Levi Eaton and George P. Oxley. Mr. Eaton went to Australia in one of his ships and remained there. Mr. Oxley went back to England, and lived there a few years but came back to Pugwash, where he died. 

In the election of 1867, shortly after Confederation, only three Union men were elected throughout the province: Dr. Tupper, for the House of Commons, Hiram Blanchard and Henry Pineo for the local assembly. 

Pugwash had the honor of sending one these men – Henry Pineo.

The first immigrant ship to arrive in Pugwash was the “Pandora” which brought discharged soldiers and some Scotch, English and Irish settlers. Many of which did not leave the district of Pugwash and many of their descendants still live there. 

Many of the settlers of the Gulf Shore district landed in Pictou and walked to the Gulf. The district became settled between the years 1803-1808. One of the three old stone houses in Cumberland County stands in that section. It was built in 1803.

(Source: The Citizen, Saturday, February 6, 1993, Page 3 – A Touch of Cumberland History – The early history of Pugwash)
(Addendum – Source: The Citizen, Saturday, May 10, 1997, Page 16 – Pugwash 100 years ago – Editor’s note: A customer of Sandpiper Restaurant in Port Philip found their place mat to be filled with valuable information. Here is a story of Pugwash 100 years ago, as published in the Oxford Journal on April 12, 1923.)

[A similar article from the Oxford Journal, used as a place mat at Sandpiper Restaurant, Port Philip, NS]

The Early History of Pugwash and Vicinity

Editor’s Note – Our request for more information regarding Pugwash’s old steam fire engine brought us the following clipping from Mrs. Charles Robertson of Gulf Shore. This historical essay was taken from Mrs. Robertson’s mother’s scrap book, and was probably written about the turn of the century.
Regarding the steam fire engine. Mrs. Robertson writes that she has been informed that it was sold and dismantled for junk.

Pugwash, situated on the Northumberland Straits, where the Pugwash River flows into the sea, has a beautiful harbor and affords splendid anchorage for large ships. In fact, Haliburton says in his history of Nova Scotia that it is the finest harbour in the county. The name “Pugwash” has been taken from an Indian name meaning “Deep Water”.

The exact date of the first settlement is not known, but it was about one hundred and ten years ago, probably about the year 1800.

The Indians were mostly Micmacs and were good hunters and fishermen.

Pugwash was first owned by James Black, Joseph Black and Oliver King. The Blacks obtained their land from the Roche and Morse Grant, dated about 1839.

Among the first to arrive were the Seamans, Collins, Reids, Bigneys, Reneys, Cooks, Andrew Stephens, George Bergman families and others, names that are still well known in Pugwash. Many of their descendants are still here. These families settled further down the shore than where Pugwash is now situated, about a quarter of a mile, at what is now known as Seaman’s Point.

A settlement was made on the west side of the harbour at an early date and on this side of the harbour stood one of the very first farm houses, built by Abram Seaman. This house stood between Cemetery Point and the house now occupied by Edward Rose, which is also a very old house, being over one hundred years old and being built by one of the early Seaman settlers.

The house owned by George Smith stands on the site of a very old one, which was only pulled down during the last few years. The west side has the honor of claiming the first white child born here, Bartlett Brundage. One day when this boy was in the woods looking for the cows he was kidnapped by the Indians. His parents could not find him, but a few years later a sister of his, who was living at McFarlane,’s Point, near Wallace, saw a white man with some Indians who landed there and recognized him as her brother. He returned with her to his people but did not remain long and went back to the Indians.

The first school house stood at the north end of what is now called Wilson’s swamp. The first school teacher was a man by the name of Delaney. When this building was abandoned, school was held in the upper part of the old Town Hall, while the lower part was used as a jail.

The first post office was a little below the school house, a short distance to the north of where a barn owned by Rupert Chapman is now standing. The first postmaster was George Bergman. The next was Levi Borden. His store and post office stood in front of S. P. Borden’s house. The office remained in the Borden family for forty years, passing from father to son.

The first house built here was one owned by Steven Seaman, on Clay’s Point. It was partly frame and partly log cabin.

The house next to this was owned by Elias King. It is a very old house, probably being between ninety and one hundred years old. The next house, now owned by Augustus Carter, was built by Isaac Todd, and was the first hotel. He also built one of the first vessels built here. The Central House, which was burned a few years ago, was built and run by Joseph Black. In “The Clock Maker” Sam Slick speaks of “Marn Pugwash”. It is supposed that he referred to Mrs. Joseph Black.

The first church was built on the hill back of the house of William Reid. It was started by the Universalists, but they were not strong enough financially to finish it. Canon Townshend from Amherst, during one of his visits, got the church from them. It was finished in 1830 and owned by the Church of England. In 1839-40 the steeple was raised, a number of sailors from vessels in the harbour and the townsmen raising It to position. It was afterwards struck by lightning and the steeple burned, but the body was saved. The second church was a Baptist church, which stood on Hull’s Point, so called from a Baptist minister of that name. The next church was the old Kirk, which stood on the hill on Elias King’s property at the back of the town. It was owned by the Presbyterian congregation for forty years, then the ground was sold back to Mr. King about twenty years ago. A house which stood between the houses now owned by S. P. Borden and S. Allen and then owned by John Killoway, was used by the Roman Catholics to celebrate mass in before the present chapel was built.

Ship building was carried on very extensively in Pugwash for years. The yards extended from the Palmerston Bridge along the waterfront down to where Carter’s house now stands. Among the most prominent ship builders were Levi Eaton and George P. Oxley. Mr. Eaton went to Australia in one of his ships and remained there. Mr. Oxley went back to England and lived there a few years, but came back to Pugwash with his sister and died here.

Among the oldest houses are the house built by Martin Hunter, next owned by Chas. DeWoIf and now owned by Ephraim Murray; the house known as the Abram Stephens house owned by the late James Stewart and the late Henry Black: and the house built by George P. Oxley and added to by Pineo and now owned by R. L. MacDonald.

Mr. Oxley’s ship yards were behind what is now called the Farmers’ Co-operative Store. He also owned a store on a corner north of J. A. Ash’s store.

Many harrowing and interesting ghost stories are told about some of the old houses in Pugwash and in the vicinity.

The old ferry slip was below F.R. Dakin’s and the landing was just below the Maritime Clay Works. A steel cable was stretched between these points and run through rollers on the scows to prevent them from going adrift, as the current is very strong at that place.

A number of Loyalists came to Pugwash and settled on the west side. Some of these were the Bigelows. Winsbys, Bergmans. Pattons, Ruscows and William, James and Cyrus Bent. The James Bent house stood where the Betcher house now stands and the property owned by Cyrus Bent is now owned by Mrs. R. A. Daniel. This house was burned about a year ago.

In the election of 1867, shortly after Confederation throughout the provinces, only three Union men were elected: Dr. Tupper for House of Commons: Hiram Blanchard and Henry Pineo for the local Assembly. Pugwash had the honor of sending one of these men – Henry Pineo.

The Pineos at one time owned a great deal of property around Pugwash, some of their descendants are still living here. Henry Pineo Jr. married the daughter of one of the first settlers, Abram Seaman.

The first emigrant ship to arrive was the “Pandora”, which brought discharged soldiers and some Scotch, English and Irish emigrants. Many of these settled in the district of Pugwash and their descendants still live here.

Many of the Gulf Shore settlers landed in Pictou and walked to the Gulf Shore. This district was settled between the years 1803-08. One of the three old stone houses in this county stands on the Gulf. It was built in 1803. The first church was built near the stone house, the church was afterwards drawn to Fox Harbour and is still used as a church.

The first school house on the Gulf was built on the Anderson farm, now owned by Daniel Reid.

The Gulf Shore was settled mostly by Highland Scotch and the men were very large and had splendid farms. The Gulf Shore for many years was noted for its fine horses.

(Source: The Oxford Journal, Oxford, Nova Scotia, Thursday, Feb. 14, 1963)

Some colorful days in Pugwash area

(Oxford Journal)

Probably the most colorful days of Pugwash, which was once visited by Captain Kidd and other pirates, and which has been visited many times by treasure seekers, were the days of shipbuilding. The harbour front was lined with wharves, stores, warehouses, and ship yards. The air rang with the sounds of axe blows and the whine of saws busy fashioning the ships which won fame the world over.

Squared timber, called tun timber was brought to Pugwash for this purpose, as it was to River Philip where the logs were driven down river to the yards located where the Port Philip bridge is.

In winter, the settlers travelled over the ice to visit their friends.

Ship building brought prosperity to the village, which, with the fishing industry, made Pugwash a boom-town. Stores were built on wharves which reached out into the harbour, to receive the goods unloaded from the ships.

All merchandise was shipped in and the bills of lading showed items such as flour, spices, silk, sugar, molasses, rum, nails, wool yard-goods, and hardware. The smells of tar and rope mingled with the scent of spices in the air drifted back from the cargo vessels which called at Pugwash. Later years saw the harbour so packed with lumber vessels that they had to be loaded by barges as there was not enough available wharfage. Eighteen sailing ships have often been anchored in the inside harbour at one time, so it was possible to cross the harbour by walking over the decks of the closely packed ships.

One of the most famous sailing ships ever built in Pugwash was the “City of Halifax”, built by the DeWolfes. It was a full rigged beauty, according to 90-year old George Stewart, whose memory of and love for the old ships, can recall the earliest days of shipbuilding in the port town.

The proud Captain of the City of Halifax was a Mucklehenny who came to Pugwash from the Parrsboro Shore district. His nephew, George MacDonnell accompanied him on one trip, but had the misfortune of falling overboard. Although he was rescued, he died soon after of injuries received.

Another queen of the sea the “Scotia, built in Pugwash with Captain Yeaman as the master. His daughter, Mrs. Martha MacLeod, is still living in Pugwash at the present time.

The “Eliza Oulton” was built by the Oulton family, and named for the bride of one of their sons, the former Eliza Borden who accompanied her husband on the ship’s maiden voyage to London as a honeymoon trip.

Other ships built here were the “Alpha” and the “Beta”, the latter being built where Mark Gillis’ store is now located.

The men of Pugwash signed on these Pugwash ships, to sail them across the seven seas of the world and the “Beta” like many others took its full crew from the village. Two of the men who went to London in her were Jack Glenn and John Stewart. Returning from London to the West Indies, the “Beta” struck shifting sands of the coast of Florida and was grounded, high and dry, for several days.

The “Mortola” was the last square rigged ship built in Pugwash, and George Akerley, Charlie McCoy, Steve Cameron and Allie MacLeod were some of her crew.

Joseph Jones was the Mortola’s builder, and the ship often returned here for cargoes of lumber.

One of Nova Scotia’s fastest ships and remembered by old sailors, was the “Sara A. Townsend”, built by Dave Redmond for Captain Townsend of Sydney, N.S. After leaving Pugwash, this double top master went to Pictou for a load of coal, continued on to Annapolis Royal and so started her career as a speedy sailing ships.

(Source: The Citizen, Saturday, January 7, 1989, Page Three – A Touch of Cumberland History – Some colorful days in Pugwash area)